HOW EUREKA SPRINGS, ARK., came to be a haven for gay men and lesbians is difficult to pinpoint. As its gay population continues to grow steadily, thousands of devout Christians pour in annually, some unaware that this is the Heartland's favorite queer small-town retreat.

This is a live-and-let-live town where people don't always embrace their neighbors' beliefs and sexual orientation but respect their rights and privacy.

After curative natural springs were discovered here in the 1870s, the town developed into a health resort. And since the '60s, countless hippies and countercultural types have settled here, and the gay presence has steadily grown. The nationally acclaimed Opera of the Ozarks (performances run from late June to late July) has brought gay performers through town, and the esteemed Eureka Theatre Company also has quite a "family" following.

More recently, the area has become an increasingly popular venue both for New Age and holistic-health enthusiasts and for couples planning commitment ceremonies through the Metropolitan Community Church of the Living Spring.

The region's appeal lies in its remarkable natural beauty, which you can explore simply by driving 15 miles in any direction. Countless ridgeline, mountaintop and lakeside vistas await.

The downtown historic district bursts with colorful Victorian architecture, including hundreds of meticulously restored wood-frame, brick and stone houses and buildings. There are also some outstanding antiques stores, art galleries and funky boutiques.

GIVEN THE UNEASY relationship between religious conservatives and gay men and lesbians, it's a bit of a surprise that Eureka Springs' famous “Passion Play,” which runs nightly from April to October, is such a gay draw. With a cast of 250 and a set the size of a small village, this is the largest outdoor drama in the country.

Eureka Springs also offers a vibrant dining scene. Set in a majestic Victorian house within walking distance of gay-friendly B&Bs, Ermilio's specializes in homemade semolina-wheat pastas such as gnocchi, spinach-and-cheese ravioli and linguine. Another fine option for a special occasion is the historic, rambling Rogue's Manor.

Hotels and Inns here have about as high a "quaint factor" as anywhere in the country. Lace curtains, Victorian antiques and creaky floorboards are the norm. You won't necessarily find four-star luxury, but even mid-price accommodations typically have rooms with refrigerators or small kitchenettes, whirlpool tubs and TVs with VCRs. More than 100 motels and chain properties line the main roads leading into town, with the attractive Victorian-inspired Comfort Inn the most gay-popular and arguably the nicest.

Eureka Springs has a pair of famous old hotels. The six-story Basin Park Hotel anchors the historic district, hugging the base of one of Eureka Springs' immense hills. High on a bluff overlooking part of downtown and miles of rolling hills and sharp ridges, the 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa has been whimsically refurbished in a hip yet folksy style.

Although this town is set in the stunningly beautiful Ozark Mountains in the northwest corner of the state, it's a bit difficult to reach. Driving times are three hours from Little Rock, four from Kansas City, five from Oklahoma City, six from St. Louis and Memphis and eight from Dallas. Lacking a tropical oceanfront setting or a pulsing gay nightlife scene, quirky Eureka Springs may not sound like a typical gay resort town, but it buzzes with activity year-round.

MORE INFO
Eureka Springs Alternative Resources page
www.eurekasprings.com/alternative

Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce
1-800-6-EUREKA
www.eurekaspringschamber.com

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